In the 101 years since the word Seiko first appeared on a watch dial, the brand has never more competently and routinely lived up to the meaning of the word, which roughly translates as “exquisite” or “success”. The new Seiko Presage Classic Series SPB525 and SPB527 are perfect manifestations of this Japanese brand’s experience when it comes to creating truly exceptional timepieces at an extremely accessible price point.

Seiko Presage Classic Series SPB525 & SPB527

Although both new Seiko Presage references evoke the same sense of understated style, there are some significant differences between the two models when it comes to dial finishing techniques and featured complications.

They share the same case dimensions, coming in at 40 mm wide, 13 mm thick, and 46 mm lug-to-lug, but the technical and aesthetic components contained within the identical housings are quite distinct.

For lovers of elegant simplicity, SPB525 will appeal. Its clear, high-contrast display boasts centrally-mounted hour, minute, and seconds hands, with the date subtly communicated at 3 o’clock, thanks to a white-on-black printed date wheel. Aside from the stand-out polished finish applied to the delicately rounded handset and applied indices, the dial finish provides a perfect backdrop that balances legibility and visual interest expertly.

Seiko Presage Classic Series SPB525

The dial colour is referred to as ‘ai-iro,’ an indigo shade, regarded as a “lucky color” during the time of samurai warriors. Its texture, however, steals the show. Conceived as a nod to the lustrous silks for which the region is well known, it shimmers and shifts in the light as the watch moves on the wrist. The result is a watch face that is easy on the eye while remaining remarkably engaging — it is the kind of dial that keeps its wearers glancing back at their wrists time and time again, long after the act of actually telling the time is complete.

Seiko Presage Classic Series SPB527

It is typical for Seiko to use the Presage line as a vehicle to communicate the beauty and wonder of the time-honored Japanese crafts that deserve to be in the spotlight. These silk-inspired dials have their roots on Amami Oshima (an island approximately 380 kilometres off the south west coast of Kyūshū), where the practice of dying this fine material (called Ōshima-tsumugi locally) with iron-rich mud originates.

The process of dying this very special silk is almost as remarkable as the magic of watchmaking itself. Rather than the dyed patterns being woven into the material, they are first “drawn” using a dot-based schematic. Cotton threads are tied onto their raw silk counterparts using a machine called a tightening loom. The cotton threads resist the dye, effectively masking the silk they are tied to, enabling the dyers to exercise a high degree of control when patterning the Ōshima-tsumugi.

This two-piece drop also celebrates the master dyers of Tokushima, the capital city of the Tokushima prefecture on Shikoku, have preserved indigo’s living blues since the 15th century. Says Reki Nagahara, an Awa indigo producer, “Japanese beauty isn’t loud. It’s something made to be lived with — something derived from nature, authentic, and meant to be close to the body.”

These additions to the Presage Classic Series collection pay homage to the enduring crafts of these Japanese regions, and are perfect examples of “yo no bi” — functional beauty. They artfully fuse the practical with the aesthetic, remaining ticking testaments to the artisans of Seiko’s homeland, while also proving up to any task thanks to their robust build quality, which prioritises security.

Seiko Presage Classic Series SPB525

A threaded caseback secures the watch against water ingress and can withstand pressures of at least 10 bar (100 meters). Thanks to a round display window, Seiko’s in-house movements can be observed as they beat away at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour (six ticks per second) in both watches.

Pleasingly, the 6R series automatic movements used in these models offer a robust power reserve of 72 hours (three days) and offers the option of manual winding should the owner allow the watch to run down entirely.

SPB525 is powered by the 6R55 and has three centrally-mounted hands and a date complication as mentioned. Meanwhile, SPB527’s 6R5J automatic movement eschews the date complication in favour of a 24-hour counter, nestled in a deeply recessed register at 6 o’clock and an open-heart balance, which can be seen through an aperture at 9.

The 24-hour counter at 6 o’clock and an open-heart balance at 9 o’clock

The other major differentiation point of these two watches can be seen in the dial finish. Instead of the stamped, silk-inspired texture seen on SPB525, SPB527 opts for a more traditional sun-ray finish, which is particularly striking when deployed on domed dials such as these. Additional visual interest is created by the broad sloping perimeter of the 24-hour counter’s sub-dial, matched by a similarly concave surrounding for the open-heart balance wheel.

Generously sized crowns make winding these watches and operating their functions straightforward. Rather than employing simple, straight-sided crowns, Seiko has instead opted for a unique design that flares out from the case, beginning with a fluted ring and culminating in a rounded crown cap bearing the brand’s S logo in relief.

Both stainless steel cases and bracelets, which are luxuriously curved and crisply finished, are treated with a super-hard coating, hammering home Seiko’s commitment to releasing watches that are not just refined in their design and construction, but also more than capable of standing up to the rigours of daily life. Additionally, they are topped by dual-curved sapphire crystals, ensuring the dial is well protected.

These two new Presage Classic Series timepieces are offered on finely finished seven-link stainless steel bracelets that mix brushed and polished elements to mirror the sharp transitions seen on the case. Three rows of small polished links that sit proud of the brushed counterparts that flank them on all sides add a strong architectural character to these bracelets. Better still, these bracelets are fitted with a compact push-button deployant clasp for added security.

The finely finished seven-link stainless steel bracelets with a compact push-button deployant clasp for added security

While bracelet complexity and the successful marriage of contrasting finishes is always appreciated and aimed for by many brands, successfully creating a bracelet that achieves this while also being daring enough to include such dramatic depth in the design is a rarely-seen feat that elevates both references to a new level.

There are many things to like about both new additions to the Seiko Presage line, most notably the emotive and historically significant shade of blue selected, the excellent balance struck between durability and desirability evidenced by the rugged super-hard coatings protecting precise finishing transitions, the ambitious, architectural design of exterior elements such as the bracelet and crown, a high-performance movement with a hearty power reserve, and a choice of complications to suit even the most seasoned Seiko collector’s preferences.

The price for the Seiko Presage SPB525 is USD 950, while the Seiko Presage SPB527 retails for USD 1,125. Both are available at Seiko Luxe retailers nationwide.