Roger Dubuis Debuts The Excalibur Monotourbillon Dr. Woo Episode III
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Roger Dubuis Debuts The Excalibur Monotourbillon Dr. Woo Episode III
Just quietly, Roger Dubuis is having a very solid 2025; the Excalibur Biretrograde Calendar showed the world a glimpse of a new direction for the brand and a smaller, 40mm Excalibur case. They’ve just followed this up with one of the coolest creative collabs I’ve seen in a while, the Excalibur Monotourbillon Dr. Woo Episode III.
This idiosyncratic take on Roger Dubuis’ mainstay Excalibur design represents the third instalment in an ongoing series with renowned tattoo artist Dr. Woo, best known for his intricate, single-needle designs. Roger Dubuis and Dr. Woo first teamed up in 2021, and this latest execution continues to explore the themes of space and wonder that have defined the partnership.
There’s a lot of space and surface on this 42mm Excalibur Monotourbillon for Dr. Woo to play, and he does not disappoint. Built around the theme of a whirlpool galaxy — the type seen in never before detail through the James Webb Telescope, Roger Dubuis has packed an incredible amount of drama into this very impressive limited edition.
Starting at the top, the sapphire dial sees a laser-engraved golden rocket chart a path across the dial in the shape of Roger Dubuis’ famous star, leaving a glittering trail and also a message: “We come in peace”. Beyond that, there’s a golden representation of a singularity (AKA a black hole) at 10 o’clock, creating a hypnotic vortex-like effect. There’s also a tiny spider (Dr. Woo’s signature) hidden at 10, just lurking in a golden galaxy. In a particularly nice example of visual storytelling, this black hole is evident on the back of the watch, where the black hole is surrounded by a chequerboard pattern that visually represents the weight and distortion these powerful phenomena have.
Back on the front of the watch, though, the tourbillon itself has been given a spaced-out makeover, with a special cage in stainless steel, which has been mirror polished and shaped like a three-armed spiral galaxy. Another classical representation of an orbiting galaxy covers the mainspring barrel, another striking element in a watch that, while theoretically open-worked, offers a level of depth and complexity that is utterly compelling and a real change of pace from Roger Dubuis’ core collection offerings.
Of course, the details don’t stop there. The pink gold and titanium case and bracelet also offer some Dr. Woo details — notably a language of seemingly arcane symbols on the famous Excalibur bezel and the centre links of the bracelet. I really love the fact that Roger Dubuis has opted for a titanium and gold watch on a bracelet specifically. It’s an unusual combination but a really practical one — and it lends this hyper-rare, Geneva-seal tourbillon from one of the most exclusive watchmakers a strangely everyday air, which is refreshing. I want to live a life where I can daily this sort of Roger Dubuis. Sadly, that’s not the case, but I’m incredibly glad this watch exists — it’s a great example of smart collaboration that works for both brands and is exactly the sort of energy Roger Dubuis should be bringing in 2025 and beyond.
Tech Specs: Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monotourbillon Dr. Woo Episode III
Movement: Calibre RD515, monotourbillon, manually wound with 72 hours of power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, tourbillon
Case: Pink gold and titanium, 42 x 12.62mm, water-resistant to 100M
Dial: Rhodium-plated flange, metallized sapphire glass
Strap: Pink gold and titanium bracelet with triple-folding buckle
Availability: Limited to 28 pieces, boutique only
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