Bovet is an old name in watchmaking, one synonymous with high quality and fine decoration. Today, the legacy name is enjoying a new lease on life, thanks to the leadership and vision of Pascal Raffy. This new era of Bovet began in 2001, when Mr Raffy, a businessman and Bovet aficionado, acquired the brand and set it on its current path.

Under Mr Raffy’s leadership, Bovet has moved from strength to strength, focusing on complicated and highly decorated watchmaking, where the brand’s numerous technical innovations and watchmaking know-how serve to better articulate the brand’s identity. While this is true of all the brand’s creations, such as the core pieces in the Fleurier and Dimier collections, it is most evident in Bovet’s most ornate creations — where nothing, not time, skill or cost — is spared to create masterful examples of the watchmaker’s art that fully embody Bovet’s expression and identity, and hold up the values of traditional watchmaking. Some recent spectacular examples of this can be found in the pair of bespoke creations made in collaboration with Rolls-Royce, to pair with the remarkable Boat Tail coach-built car and the outstanding Virtuoso XI.

The Virtuoso XI is Bovet like you’ve never seen it before

Bovet Bares All with the Virtuoso XI

Bovet’s Virtuoso XI is a celebration of the brand’s values and distinctive approach to watchmaking — along with some truly exceptional artisanal finishing. It’s also, somewhat surprisingly, the brand’s first-ever fully skeletonized piece, and it’s instantly clear from the finely finished and open-worked elements of the movement that absolutely no effort has been spared. But before we examine the bridges and burin strokes that make this skeleton watch exceptional, we need to talk about the case.

Bovet is famous for its cases — and with good reason. The ornate and idiosyncratic designs are treated with a level of care and respect that matches every other aspect of the watch, and the Virtuoso XI takes as its case the brand’s famous “Writing Desk,” one of the few available in the Fleurier collection. Not only does this design honor Bovet’s legacy in pocket watches, with its placement of the crown and bow at 12, but the case itself is sloped, meaning it is thicker at the top and more slender at the bottom.

The crown and bow (©Revolution)

The caseback sits flat, but the dial is gently sloped, much like writing desks of yore. But instead of creating an ergonomic writing position, this much smaller surface makes for a more legible watch — with the viewing angle from the eye to the wrist being improved. Not that visibility is too much of an issue, as the large 44mm white gold case is graced with a large, domed sapphire crystal, all the better to see every single hand-finished detail of the glorious caliber.

The architecture of the re-engineered Virtuoso VIII calibre is exceptionally elegant when skeletonised, especially the finger bridges (©Revolution)

The movement is a reimagined and re-engineered version of the manufacture Fleurier Virtuoso VIII movement, a large 38mm flying tourbillon caliber, which meets Bovet’s stringent requirements for excellence, as well as artistic expression. From a technical perspective, there’s a single large barrel that offers 10 days of power, with a power reserve indicator. Much more interesting is the tourbillon itself — it’s Bovet’s patented double-sided flying tourbillon. Not only does this creation look quite unlike other tourbillon cages, but it functions differently, too. The escapement is mounted on the underside of the cage, while the balance wheel is on the upper (dial side). These discreet elements are joined by a long balance staff running through the central axis of the cage, which in turn rotates around a central ball bearing that supports the entire tourbillon assembly, and does so in a way that minimizes friction. Of course, from an aesthetic point of view, this design allows for an uninterrupted view of the escapement and the balance, from both the front and back of the movement, adding up to one of the most dramatic tourbillon designs of the modern era.

The tourbillon (©Revolution)

It’s worth mentioning that Bovet makes its own hairspring and regulating organ — something few, even in the rarefied air of haute horlogerie, can claim. Another distinctive technical innovation that’s proudly on display is the patented spherical winding system, the compact cylinder of gearing that sits right underneath the winding crown, offering an economical mechanism that is efficient too — requiring around half the winding to fully wind than a watch with a conventional crown winding mechanism.

Of course, when you look at this watch, it’s immediately apparent that the focus is less on the technical watchmaking and more on the artistry. And what artistry. Every single surface of this watch, inside and out, has been finished to a level and with such a virtuosity that the name is well and truly earned. The hand engraving of the case and caliber is the result of around 60 hours of painstaking and highly skilled work, made even more demanding by the fact that if any single stroke of the engraver’s tools — used under a microscope — goes astray, hours and hours of effort are instantly ruined.

With over 60 hours of delicate hand engraving inspired by ancient Greek decorative elements, this watch lives up to its name (©Revolution)

The recurring motif that’s visible throughout this watch is the Fleurisanne motif, a code of the house’s design language for decades, and one that draws inspiration from the far more ancient decorative elements on Greek columns. The fronds of foliage-inspired engraving curl up the flanks of the case and join over the bow of the crown, accentuating the elegance of the Writing Slope case. The classical design and traditional engraving are also exceptionally well-matched to the skeletonized movement of the Virtuoso XI.

The Writing Slope case

Even before the engraving, every element of the bridges and gears on the movement has been pared back and opened up — allowing as much light as possible to shine on the handwork. Originally, this movement featured a date, which was removed so as to create a more pleasing symmetry. The bridges and plates were made as structurally as possible, something that is dramatically apparent in the finger bridges that hold the gear train in place on the right-hand side of the watch.

The level of hand finishing on these slender and delicate components is remarkable; for example, the detail required on the minute train bridge alone is something few would attempt. Interestingly, one of the few elements of the watch that hasn’t been finished by hand is the laser-engraved mainspring barrel, and only because the metal here is too thin to take the engravers’ tools without warping.

Bovet Virtuoso XI in 18k White Gold (©Revolution)

Taken as a whole, the Virtuoso XI is a remarkable example of a classic skeleton watch — a creation where the care and effort taken with the movement design and construction is matched by the level of finishing. It’s opulent and expressive — two things that Bovet clearly excels at.

Tech Specs: Bovet Virtuoso XI

Movement: Manual winding re-engineered Virtuoso VIII manufacture movement; 10-day power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds and patented double-sided flying tourbillon
Case: 44mm × 13.45mm; 18K white gold or red gold Writing Slope, fully engraved or high polished, with optional diamonds; water resistant to 30m
Dial: Completely skeletonized with every plate, bridge and other surface fully hand engraved
Strap: Color-matched alligator leather; 18K white gold or red gold folding clasp
Price: On application
Availability: Limited production

The Spirit of Horological Ecstasy

When it comes to a commitment to traditional craft and bespoke customization in the automotive world, few can come close to Rolls-Royce. The prestigious automotive marque is renowned for its customizable creations — unique works of functional art that are perfectly aligned with the values and skills of Bovet; indeed, the maison does for the wrist what Rolls-Royce does for the road. So, it’s entirely apt that Bovet has created two custom creations in collaboration with the prestigious car marque. The project with Bovet was the very first of its kind with a timepiece House for Rolls-Royce.

In an example of just what Bovet is capable of, this pair of watches has been made in celebration of, and in partnership with, Rolls-Royce (©Revolution)

This pair of watches was made as a couple — completely custom tourbillons, inspired by a singular car known as the Boat Tail. Rolls-Royce’s custom division, Coachbuild, is the most exclusive service offered by the automaker, where practically anything is possible. As you might expect from a name like Boat Tail, this vehicle was inspired by the sea — specifically the soft and sophisticated lines of modern boat design, from a silhouette reminiscent of J-class yachts, to the hull-like open-pore Caleidolegno detailing, offsetting the soft blue lacquer that gives the creation a dreamy air.

Coachbuild is the physical embodiment of a client’s character, a distillation of their utmost self. Crafted in exclusive collaboration between artisans and owners, every element of Boat Tail is personalised perfection (Image: Rolls-Royce)

Of course, if you’re building your dream Rolls-Royce, you want to put careful consideration into the personal touches, like the champagne refrigerator, custom-tuned to the perfect temperature for the owner’s favorite vintage of Armand de Brignac. And of course, there’re the timepieces. Most prominent is the central dashboard display, which allows the bespoke Bovet watches to be safely mounted, using a variation of the patented Amadeo convertible system — a process which required years of research, including vibration, temperature and humidity testing on the watch, as well as automotive crash testing. The dashboard holder itself is made from aluminum and titanium, and it includes a white gold facsimile of the watches themselves, to be used as a placeholder for when the watches themselves are being worn. There’s even an in-car drawer to store watch accessories and jewelry.

The Amadeo convertible system

Given the amount of care and attention devoted to Rolls-Royce’s integration of the bespoke timekeeping elements, it’s clearly setting a high bar for the watches themselves. Clearly, the team at Bovet are up for a challenge, as the two creations are every bit as exceptional as the car that inspired them. Made as a matched pair for the husband and wife who commissioned the car, these watches feature artistic techniques that serve as a visual link between the car and the timepiece. We’ll get to the differences between His and Hers shortly, but first, let’s focus on the commonalities. Both watches are 44mm white gold models in a newly designed Fleurier-style case and equipped with Bovet’s ingenious Amadeo convertible system, which allows them to be reversed, worn on a chain as a pocket watch or a necklace, displayed on a desk or, in this instance, used as a dashboard clock. The design of a new 44mm case was required, as Rolls-Royce had stringent restrictions when it came to the maximum weight for the timepieces and the integrated timepiece holder. As such, this new, smaller take on the Fleurier case was created.

The movement in both is uniquely suited to this diverse-use case, a manually wound manufacture caliber, with a tourbillon and five days of power reserve. Interestingly, the tourbillons used in this pair are bespoke, as Bovet was concerned about the impact of vibration from the dash-mounted position on the accuracy of the watch. Bovet swapped out its usual ball bearings in favor of pivots for the mounting system and increased the weight of the balance wheel — a move that caused a drop in power reserve, but increased accuracy.

One of the most complex and demanding aspect of the development process was designing the dash mounting mechanism (©Revolution)

The gentleman’s timepiece is highly polished, with a front dial that is dominated by Caleidolegno wood marquetry — the same wood used on the Boat Tail car, and framed with sleek metalwork that evokes the lines of the Rolls-Royce, an association made even more unforgettable thanks to the solid 18K gold statuette of the Spirit of Ecstasy, the iconic hood ornament of Rolls-Royce that here rests atop the tourbillon cage.

The rear dial of this piece is even more personal to the owner, with an aventurine dial overlaid with the owner’s sky chart on the day of his birth, along with a hand-engraved sculpture of the Boat Tail itself, lacquered to match the color and painstakingly painted on key details, such as the wheels, handles, mirrors and more. Bovet worked in consultation with Rolls-Royce to color match the car itself and provide as exact a replica as possible.

The dial of each watch is full of customised details made with the owner in mind (©Revolution)

The lady’s watch follows a similar formula, with a front dial in wood marquetry and the Spirit of Ecstasy, with a rendering of the car on the rear, but the overall treatment of this watch is even more ornate. The case itself is covered with delicate engraving, filled in with blue lacquer, a simultaneous reference to Bovet’s pocket-watch legacy and the car for which the watches are commissioned. It is the rear dial of the lady’s watch that is particularly stunning — the rich mother-of-pearl dial features a complex and accomplished miniature painting of a floral bouquet, in which every detail was chosen in consultation with the owner.

From pocket to wrist and even dash. Versatility is key with these bespoke Bovet creation (©Revolution)

Finally, the personal nature of this charming pair is emphasized by the fact that the front-facing dial carries the owner’s name, and the rear bears the name of his “better half,” engraved on the tourbillon bridge.

Bovet estimates that 3,000 hours of development went into the conception and creation of these watches, including the time spent painting, sculpting and engraving the watches themselves, but perhaps more significantly, the research and development involved in designing and re-engineering the case and caliber into timepieces that would complement the exceptional Rolls-Royce automobile.

These watches, taken as a group, are a testament to what makes Bovet special. It is a brand with a long heritage and a deep respect for watchmaking tradition, but a brand that, nonetheless, has a remarkably modern approach to its craft. Deeply technical, patented inventions sit alongside some of the best modern examples of centuries-old techniques, creating a vision of watchmaking that is as enchanting as it is personal.

Tech Specs: Bovet “Boat Tail” Bespoke Timepiece (His)

Movement: Bespoke manual winding movement; five-day power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes and tourbillon
Case: 44mm × 14mm; polished bespoke Fleurier-style 18K white gold, with Amadeo convertible system
Dial: Front – Handmade Caleidolegno wood marquetry, with hand-engraved Spirit of Ecstasy sculpture; Rear – Blue aventurine glass with sky chart of owner’s birth date and birthplace; hand-engraved bespoke Boat Tail sculpture, lacquered to match the color of the car, then miniature painted by hand to add the details; wife’s name engraved on the tourbillon bridge
Strap: Blue leather with 18K white gold folding clasp; additional white gold linked chain and necklace Accessories Integrated desk clock stand, aluminum and titanium dashboard, and white gold, hand-engraved placeholder insert for when watch is being worn
Price: On application
Availability: Pièce unique

Tech Specs: Bovet “Boat Tail” Bespoke Timepiece (Hers)

Movement: Bespoke manual winding movement; five-day power reserve
Functions: Hours, minutes and tourbillon Case 44mm × 14mm; hand-engraved and lacquered Fleurier-style 18K white gold, with Amadeo convertible system
Dial: Front – Handmade Caleidolegno wood marquetry, with hand-engraved Spirit of Ecstasy sculpture; Rear – Miniature hand painting of a flower bouquet on mother-of-pearl, hand-engraved bespoke Boat Tail sculpture, lacquered to match the color of the car, then miniature painted by hand to add the details; husband’s name engraved on the tourbillon bridge
Strap: Burgundy leather with 18K white gold folding clasp; additional 18K white gold linked chain and necklace Accessories Integrated desk clock stand, aluminum and titanium dashboard, and white gold, hand-engraved placeholder insert for when watch is being worn
Price: On application
Availability: Pièce unique