Jean-Marc Wiederrecht, a Swiss master whose career has shone brightly over the past two decades, is an innovator who redefines legibility and complexity in the world of watchmaking. After graduating from the École d’Horlogerie de Genève in 1972, he began his career at Châtelain, where he transformed gold coins into watches, developing a passion for miniaturization. Frustrated by the limitations of traditional watches, he founded Agenhor, an independent workshop that became his canvas for experimentation. His style is characterized by a focus on legible and functional dials, highlighting mechanisms such as the bi-retrograde, where retrograde hands dominate the dial to display days and dates with elegance.

His most notable innovation came in 1989 with the creation of the first bi-retrograde perpetual calendar for Harry Winston, a collaboration with Roger Dubuis that revolutionized the industry by prioritizing legibility over ostentatious luxury. This milestone, along with his delightful AgenGraphe — a centered chronograph with a donut-shaped movement that achieved success with H. Moser, Fabergé and Singer Reimagined — as well as his fascinating developments with Hermès and Van Cleef & Arpels, proves that he is the very definition of watchmaking innovation in these times.

Harry Winston Bi-retrograde Perpetual Calendar

Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic Funky Blue. The Calibre HMC 902 developed with AGENHOR for H. Moser & Cie.

Winner of the 2007 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève for Best Watch Designer, Wiederrecht has proven that independence fosters creativity, challenging the narrative that only the major watch brands can lead innovation. His legacy in contemporary watchmaking lies in his ability to fuse technique with accessible design, inspiring a new generation of watchmakers to explore unconventional formats.

His influence continues to resonate, a reminder that personal ingenuity can transform the industry.